tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10343536151640248212024-02-21T12:21:30.231-05:00Wireless Amateur Experimenter GroupThe WAX Group consists of members of the Barrie Amateur Radio Club who enjoy building projects for our ham radio hobby from kits or individual parts, instead of just buying ready made. We also promote learning and using CW and getting out of your house to a park or other location to operate (whether it be QRP or higher power, CW or SSB).
Webpage: https://barriearc.com/builders-group Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-3209156225066920432017-10-26T10:41:00.001-04:002017-10-26T10:53:27.623-04:00My BITX40v3Here is a recent picture of my BITX40v3. I have added a top and sides to the plastic case, the top and sides hinge up as a single unit out of the way so I can access the circuit boards easier.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYQiDowf2bE1Dcq0SOfuYeMushSchL28PCx_SLcl6iZ4KFChBLmgTEHfzH7hg3VwdxpXyDpEiemszTNWlnt3pPlTHzQg4la-copURiq42iZoau9Cu6zDMRj9wlMcuG_xdMFxnncTcoRk/s1600/VE3RRD+Bitx40v3+station.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYQiDowf2bE1Dcq0SOfuYeMushSchL28PCx_SLcl6iZ4KFChBLmgTEHfzH7hg3VwdxpXyDpEiemszTNWlnt3pPlTHzQg4la-copURiq42iZoau9Cu6zDMRj9wlMcuG_xdMFxnncTcoRk/s320/VE3RRD+Bitx40v3+station.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The unit on top is a Radio Shack Realistic DSP-40 which greatly improves the receiver audio. Also shown are a 3D printed straight key and paddles. The black button beside the tuning knob is the fine tune which allows me to use one hand for tuning (hold the button in with my thumb while turning the knob with my fingers - gives 1 Hz tuning resolution). Using a 10-turn pot is a must.<br />
I have added a stereo jack to the "microphone" box and now use a coiled stereo patch cord I found at a Dollarama.<br />
I will still need to figure out where to install the two CW touch-paddles on the front panel for the latest sketch (v1.26 at this time). I also need to add an audio AGC circuit yet, although the DSP-40 does help somewhat.<br />
One thing I have found is that its important to make the removal of the circuit board easy, as its always coming out for more mods to be soldered on. AL - VE3RRDWireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-52664571819582950052017-09-09T11:26:00.000-04:002017-10-26T10:07:12.286-04:00RST report with no S-meterSome hams have difficulty giving an RST report (or RS report for SSB) when they are using a rig with no S-meter. The S-meter is useful for giving a comparative reading between the noise floor (RF level when the station you are trying to hear is not transmitting), and the signal strength of the station you are attempting to hear. If the S-meter were properly calibrated (which it usually isn't), then each S-unit change would indicate a 6db change in signal strength. This is why you must quadruple your TX power if you want the other station to hear you 1 S-unit stronger. So if you are transmitting at 5W output power, then increasing to 20W would get you 1 S-unit, and 80W would get you 2 S-units stronger. This is one reason why it is best to improve your antenna system rather than increase your TX power a few watts.<br />
However the S-meter should not be used to create an RS/RST report, as Readability/Strength is a "subjective" report based on how you "hear" the other station.<br />
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A 5/9 report indicates the other station is perfectly readable and is very strong. But lets take a couple of examples:<br />
If RF conditions are very favorable with the noise floor showing an S0 on an S-meter, and the signal you are copying is an S2 to S3 on the S-meter; then he could be given a report of 5/8 or even 5/9 since his signal is very strong compared to the noise floor.<br />
On the other hand, if the noise floor were an S8 or higher on an S-meter and the signal you are copying is an S9; then his report might be a 4/4 since he is not much above the noise floor. Static bursts might prevent you from hearing every word which could result in you giving a 3/3 or 3/4 report.<br />
You should keep a copy of the RS or RST report chart near your rig so you can give valid reports to the other station - of course in a contest, everyone is a 5/9 no matter how many repeats are needed to get his info correctly !?!Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-64340351811037440132017-07-09T22:08:00.002-04:002017-07-09T22:08:27.533-04:00Track the Canada C3 Research VesselArticle at <a href="http://wp.rac.ca/a-whisper-for-canada-c3/">http://wp.rac.ca/a-whisper-for-canada-c3/</a> . A WSPR beacon on the research vessel Polar Prince using callsign CG3EXP will be transmitting on 20, 30 and 40m during its 150 day journey through the north-west passage.<br />
You can follow its voyage on the map at <a href="http://www.qrp-labs.com/c3.html">http://www.qrp-labs.com/c3.html</a> . A Canada C3 Expedition Award program offers certificates to those copying the WSPR beacon at the ship's various stopping points along the way. See <a href="http://wp.rac.ca/operating/rac-awards/canada-c3-expedition-award/">http://wp.rac.ca/operating/rac-awards/canada-c3-expedition-award/</a> for details.Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-29905434746803282732017-06-17T21:55:00.002-04:002017-07-06T20:09:14.787-04:00BITX Map<span style="background-color: #f6f7f9; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"> </span><span style="background-color: #f6f7f9; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="UFICommentBody" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The BITX map problem has been solved! You can now add yourself to the map again, or send an email as before. There is a second new shorter link: <a href="http://bitxmap.com/">BITXmap.com</a> </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f6f7f9; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="UFICommentBody" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="UFICommentBody" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">To add yourself to the map, enter your address in the search box and then click "add to map" in the small info box that appears. Next click on "edit" (looks like a pencil) at the bottom of the info box, and change the top line (with your address) to your call sign. You can also enter other info such as antenna type, power out etc in the box below your call. Then click the "save" button.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-72643592455127109052017-06-14T22:31:00.004-04:002017-06-14T22:31:50.239-04:00BITX40 QSO NightBITX40 users are meeting every Sunday evening at 7pm (your local time) on 7.277 MHz in North America and on 7.178 MHz elsewhere. To listen for stations in the time zone on either side of you, monitor at 6pm and 8pm (your local time).<br />
Also check <a href="http://www.qrpspots.com/">http://www.qrpspots.com/</a> for BITX40 QSO announcements.Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-86780666222614546642017-06-14T22:21:00.000-04:002017-06-14T22:24:17.852-04:00BITX Operators MapA map of BITX users throughout the world can be viewed at <a href="http://bitxmap.com/">http://bitxmap.com/</a> . This map is currently locked. To get added, please send your call and address to VE3RRD @ gmail DOT com or to KD9CYF @ gmail DOT com . You can also include other info such as power output and type of antenna if you wish it to be displayed.<br />
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<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-62579504408882591562017-05-02T14:10:00.001-04:002017-10-26T10:09:40.793-04:00BITX40v3 Mod - add PTT senseThe newest version of the Raduino software supports RIT (Split) but requires a hardware mod to sense when the PTT is pressed. This is accomplished by adding a 10K resistor to the junction of C150, RV1 and the output of the 5V regulator. Since the 5V regulator is only powered during transmit, the Raduino can sense this voltage to determine if the PTT is pressed. The 10K resistor is connected to the black wire (A0) on the Raduino 8 pin connector.<br />
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The 10K resistor and wire can be soldered to the bottom of the BITX40 board to keep it out of the way. I used a small connector in the black wire leading to the Raduino to make it easy to remove the circuit board for further modifications. Some hot melt glue will keep the wire from moving around and breaking off the resistor lead from too much flexing.<br />
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73, AL - VE3RRDWireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-9813857454023303532017-05-02T13:43:00.003-04:002017-10-26T10:00:31.427-04:00BITX40v3 Mod - C91 & C92When the BITX40v3 is using the Raduino, the two capacitors C91 and C92 should be removed from the circuit board. These capacitors attenuate the signal coming from the Raduino which is not as big a problem on LSB (injected RF around 5 MHz or less), but is more of a problem on USB (injected RF around 19 MHz). In the newer Raduino sketches (such as v1.0.9 or higher) the drive level for LSB and USB can be set in the software.<br />
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The above picture shows an older BITX40v3 board where L4 had to be removed; on the newer boards, both L4 and the variable cap above it are not installed.<br />
The wires from the Raduino to the connector shown above, should be kept as short as possible and routed in an arc up away from the circuit board. Even better is to replace the two wires with mini coax such as RG174. This will minimize the Raduino signal that could enter the circuit and cause other problems such as the harmonic mixing that causes a "birdie" on 7199 KHz.<br />
I can still hear the birdie on 7199 on my BITX40, but it is quite low and doesn't interfere with signals on or near that frequency. 73, AL - VE3RRDWireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-37529931060957519942017-04-24T11:20:00.000-04:002017-04-24T16:56:29.784-04:00New features for BITX40v3 The latest v1.07 Raduino software can be downloaded from <a href="https://github.com/amunters/bitx40">https://github.com/amunters/bitx40</a> , and the user instructions are found at <a href="https://github.com/amunters/bitx40/blob/master/operating%20instructions">https://github.com/amunters/bitx40/blob/master/operating%20instructions</a> .<br />
This new version adds upper sideband so that now the BITX40 can be used for digital modes on 40m. Note that you must use the si5351 v2.0.1 library with the Arduino IDE for it to compile. You must also add a "Function" pushbutton to access all of the new features, which are listed as:<br />
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Added functionality via the Function Button<br />
<ul>
<li>Use a pushbutton to momentarily ground pin A3 (orange wire). Do NOT install an external pull-up resistor!</li>
<li>dual VFO A/B capability (RIT is not yet working though)</li>
<li>LSB/USB mode selection</li>
<li>Settings menu for calibration, tuning range, VFO drive level</li>
<li>All settings are stored in EEPROM and read during startup</li>
</ul>
Here is a picture of my BITX40 receiving JT65 on 7076 KHz. The USB bandwidth is a little narrow to receive the entire JT65 band, but by tuning up 1 or 2 KHz, it can be covered. I haven't gotten the transmit working yet. 73, AL - VE3RRD<br />
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Here is a picture of the BITX40 receiving WSPR on 7038.6 KHz USB. I am using the software WSJT-X for both modes.<br />
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<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-28277719871463541342017-04-16T12:49:00.000-04:002017-10-26T09:57:35.248-04:00Minimum BITX40v3 Hacks<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="background: white; font-size: 12.0pt;">The two
mods that everyone should be adding as soon as they get their BITX40v3 are the
Q13 protection diodes at K1 and the 2nd harmonic reduction mod (100 pF NPo 100V
capacitor across L7 in the output filter).</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><br />
<span style="background: white;">The Q13 protection mod is extremely important as
there have been hams who have blown Q13 within hours (or even minutes) of
getting their new BITX40v3 working and hooked up to an antenna. The cause is
because they transmitted on a nearby antenna with their 100W or higher station
rig while the BITX40 was receiving on its antenna.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><br />
<span style="background: white;">The symptom of a damaged Q13 is that receive
still works fine but there is no transmit. Note that although Q13 is a driver
for the transmitter circuit, its base is connected to the antenna during
receive.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
<span style="background: white;">Q13 can be replaced by a 2N3904 transistor
(there is an SMD version if desired). 73, AL VE3RRD</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background: white;">The 2nd harmonic is a little too high for North American standards. Add a 100 pF 100V NP0 capacitor across L7 in the output filter. This will reduce the 2nd harmonic by about 20 dB. If you are planning on increasing the output power above the normal 5 to 7W, then you should use a 200V capacitor.</span></span><br />
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The above two suggestions are not mine, but came from others working to improve the BITX40v3 design. AL - VE3RRD</div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background: white;"><br /></span></span>Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-88670575376071694772017-02-21T16:14:00.002-05:002017-02-21T16:17:53.081-05:00BITX40Here are a couple of pictures of my BITX40. I was able to get the DDS upgrade kit from HFsigs.com, so I dropped the idea of making my own from an Arduino Nano and AD9850 DDS. The transceiver is mounted in a 1/4 inch plastic and aluminum angle stock frame. The microphone is a small plastic box with PTT switch glued in hole on side and the mic element hole on the end (so it can be used either left or right handed). I found that the speaker I have mounted to the right of the circuit board didn't produce the best audio experience, so I added a socket to the back panel to plug in an external speaker which has very good audio. 73, AL - VE3RRD<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE648CDjcBUryH0PDeQ42urVgkxNgryt8VqQn-_fTrpUKoyeDJch7q5d9OKCxEshR3eE4CNdJP6YFIVTg55U4LX0Br6PBv_Eh_GrS7sHYHbBDnFF95oThtaPpx9fx-pAY7czWFiEW8PO4/s1600/BITX40-VE3RRD-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE648CDjcBUryH0PDeQ42urVgkxNgryt8VqQn-_fTrpUKoyeDJch7q5d9OKCxEshR3eE4CNdJP6YFIVTg55U4LX0Br6PBv_Eh_GrS7sHYHbBDnFF95oThtaPpx9fx-pAY7czWFiEW8PO4/s320/BITX40-VE3RRD-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkca0YGX73MbJuF_1ThcsKCnKrZ7aWOIioUfadyuW-o47W_DA00r9X_JzQd_9etNJLjkgodBChzoEosBjhQ97GrcPyCpl7L7ZkipwnxSehwbfjr-hq2MoZbO-yR_ItX8tANP6gl2P_iWw/s1600/BITX40-VE3RRD-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkca0YGX73MbJuF_1ThcsKCnKrZ7aWOIioUfadyuW-o47W_DA00r9X_JzQd_9etNJLjkgodBChzoEosBjhQ97GrcPyCpl7L7ZkipwnxSehwbfjr-hq2MoZbO-yR_ItX8tANP6gl2P_iWw/s320/BITX40-VE3RRD-2.jpg" width="275" /></a></div>
<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-10413050623466113442017-01-08T19:02:00.001-05:002017-02-04T00:28:52.808-05:00BITX40 FunSome of us have just purchased the BITX40 SSB 40m transceiver from <a href="http://hfsigs.com/">HFsigs.com</a> . This is a kind of revolutionary radio, not just because you get a working 40m SSB transceiver for $59 US, but also because it permits those hams who are afraid of building a kit transceiver from a bag of parts a chance to "roll their own". What you get for your money is an assembled and tested transceiver board, with all the various parts needed to mount it in a box of your choosing and get it on the air.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRJOI1cLg_h5PgkKUrovPYp5shmStuEBjAjD4XIrh2SIE7ElV3_0TyOa_xXi80YT9kegNYR5H1z2hv89zvYxNzzWmgdlq1qPeYpRaBq2u9EL_AjSvAiwZc725i9FzYPAtaHTaiRQzbCHM/s1600/BITX40.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRJOI1cLg_h5PgkKUrovPYp5shmStuEBjAjD4XIrh2SIE7ElV3_0TyOa_xXi80YT9kegNYR5H1z2hv89zvYxNzzWmgdlq1qPeYpRaBq2u9EL_AjSvAiwZc725i9FzYPAtaHTaiRQzbCHM/s400/BITX40.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The BITX40 that I purchased did not include the digital display and digital VFO as it is now sold (mine was $49 US). The versions sold now cover the entire 40m band and let the buyer add or modify to his liking.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsE-L_WT5nf_qTC2KRxX27M6shQIHWLuoV8ouFuf_4dIInBoZsw-SDU3Norr28QbqQNDM-c9CBUK5ZWsoyCHyx_CUMeYHZGKOXwyfP92USCiXYfzBhLf0yoKPuWyUA-N0EijfY_aKKMo/s1600/DSC_0449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsE-L_WT5nf_qTC2KRxX27M6shQIHWLuoV8ouFuf_4dIInBoZsw-SDU3Norr28QbqQNDM-c9CBUK5ZWsoyCHyx_CUMeYHZGKOXwyfP92USCiXYfzBhLf0yoKPuWyUA-N0EijfY_aKKMo/s320/DSC_0449.JPG" width="180" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiSy9FW1wN7JTICU_TAqkYsvbg1tPLL3leRyMMURX3Yv2BErlYEhs8Ds00NO_okwBzUdUHZnSUN_naOxPlmwhRZ8C_EmSW7Uzkvy3kHTgKi8oe2kZc8gq3rqdVrrPvPIvZuIwe_HfNIOI/s1600/DSC_0450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiSy9FW1wN7JTICU_TAqkYsvbg1tPLL3leRyMMURX3Yv2BErlYEhs8Ds00NO_okwBzUdUHZnSUN_naOxPlmwhRZ8C_EmSW7Uzkvy3kHTgKi8oe2kZc8gq3rqdVrrPvPIvZuIwe_HfNIOI/s320/DSC_0450.JPG" width="180" /></a><br />
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Because mine didn't include the Arduino controlled DDS/display board, I am adding an AD9850 DDS and Arduino Nano clone which will use the software from AD7C. In the above two pictures, you can see the temporary course and fine tune pots sticking out the side. These will be removed once the digital VFO is working. They even included an electret microphone element which I have put into a small plastic box with a PTT button.<br />
My first BITX40 to BITX40 QSO was with Tom VE3THR, the radios sounded very good except that the analog tuning had a lot of drift. The new version solves the drifting problem with the digital VFO.<br />
Power output is about 7W peak or more when connected to a 13.8V power supply, but the design allows you to up the voltage to the PA to as much as 25V which will give you about 20W output (of course you will need to use a larger heat sink). Check <a href="http://bitxhacks.blogspot.ca/">BITX Hacks</a> for ideas on modifying your BITX40. The Yahoo BITX20 Group covering this transceiver has moved to "groups.io" at <a href="https://groups.io/g/BITX20">https://groups.io/g/BITX20</a> . There is also a Facebook group called "Bitx40v3 40m radio kit".<br />
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The answers to many questions that prospective or new owners of the BITX40 may have can be found on the "Unofficial BITX40 FAQ" page at <a href="http://miscdotgeek.com/unofficial-bitx40-faq/">http://miscdotgeek.com/unofficial-bitx40-faq/</a> </div>
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<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-6508717794310055742016-12-27T18:11:00.000-05:002016-12-27T18:11:02.878-05:00Barrie Amateur Radio Club webpageVisit the Barrie Amateur Radio Club temporary webpage at
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://themuskokan.com/">http://themuskokan.com/</a> for information about our ham radio club and its
activities.
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<br />The club's permanent webpage at <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.barriearc.com/">http://www.barriearc.com</a> is currently
under re-construction.<br />
Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-3135315255841391142016-09-19T18:48:00.000-04:002016-09-19T19:26:27.691-04:00Ham Radio at the Beeton Fall Fair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFfOlfxGC31t1DQFrQ5-qRWbMgZLJXMH1h1seKi0X4PTmCyoHYVqpq7tiOXO_1QP8Dc7sVfkrPEWPz9s4rUbL3lEvJ30ppetm5HUpdiSI1W27BcbfvgU0u3u0JYJ-eXGN6nc_UMtUbmDA/s1600/Beeton+display.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFfOlfxGC31t1DQFrQ5-qRWbMgZLJXMH1h1seKi0X4PTmCyoHYVqpq7tiOXO_1QP8Dc7sVfkrPEWPz9s4rUbL3lEvJ30ppetm5HUpdiSI1W27BcbfvgU0u3u0JYJ-eXGN6nc_UMtUbmDA/s400/Beeton+display.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Some members of the club set up a ham radio display at the Beeton Fall Fair for two days on September 17 and 18. Above is Jack VE3RDQ and Brant VE3UME. Also there were Al VE3RRD (taking the picture), and Jay VE3JXT.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlm3q2AgDTFLDswDhw00cgQ46wSUCtIj2lwxvRsgJKBnhEgruj142rFPCG59JZUZoRIAieErPLQAf1jEqPa05J6tQS5OOti2_Fx7CzBhxwVsCFSYQJlS3T1IB9lt-8torr_vEPAN1tqQ/s1600/KX3+at+Beeton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlm3q2AgDTFLDswDhw00cgQ46wSUCtIj2lwxvRsgJKBnhEgruj142rFPCG59JZUZoRIAieErPLQAf1jEqPa05J6tQS5OOti2_Fx7CzBhxwVsCFSYQJlS3T1IB9lt-8torr_vEPAN1tqQ/s400/KX3+at+Beeton.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Above, I have my KX3 set up on a small table with paddles and straight key. To the right is my home made 15m through 40m magnetic loop antenna which I didn't try transmitting on, but also seemed to pick up quite a few signals. In front of the magloop is my 80 AHr battery with TGE N8XJK 25A boost-regulator to provide 13.8 VDC to the radios (see <a href="http://stores.tgelectronics.org/">http://stores.tgelectronics.org/</a> for more on this product).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZEaeAgPhWwKDgkcAUmqC0lNtD1xqIuw1gFJgttschCFOO2K1xUtTkiDYCeD98FmVK_b9msbK8PQXGVACsSUgoR9maGIraE4qP-0U-R5CIxwqhUdAvxVa2aOGevNVRTOeFKOkKZCUnJQ/s1600/field+antennas+at+Beeton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFZEaeAgPhWwKDgkcAUmqC0lNtD1xqIuw1gFJgttschCFOO2K1xUtTkiDYCeD98FmVK_b9msbK8PQXGVACsSUgoR9maGIraE4qP-0U-R5CIxwqhUdAvxVa2aOGevNVRTOeFKOkKZCUnJQ/s400/field+antennas+at+Beeton.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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The silver pole on the left is a 16 foot painter pole with an Arrow 2m/70cm J-pole antenna on top. The black one is a 33 foot MFJ-1910 telescoping fiberglass mast which I used to support a 31 foot end-fed antenna with 9:1 unun (Balun Designs 9130sw). This antenna performed very well even though I was using the van as the counterpoise.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fKjnHLYTqOvvNVsrX3_UVXTvg-Exy0d1oEj-jDlFpugH9ERd-Bj86Zhq_9G0X80BNA4gvA3FrZ_cuQlKuXHF0dyoA7xhuPtzSl-EwDhBssojFQRWn4vSkGbMrVQ6Xk41r0p7Sa5PNY0/s1600/field+antennas+mounting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fKjnHLYTqOvvNVsrX3_UVXTvg-Exy0d1oEj-jDlFpugH9ERd-Bj86Zhq_9G0X80BNA4gvA3FrZ_cuQlKuXHF0dyoA7xhuPtzSl-EwDhBssojFQRWn4vSkGbMrVQ6Xk41r0p7Sa5PNY0/s400/field+antennas+mounting.jpg" width="287" /></a></div>
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In the foreground is the painter pole inserted into a surplus tripod staked to the ground. Behind it you can see the "foot" made from a 2 foot long piece of 2x6 with a pipe flange bolted to it and a 6 inch piece of threaded 1-1/4 inch pipe. I have one of the fiberglass 4 foot military tent poles (available from Mapleleaf Communications or from Princess Auto) slipped over the pipe (I had to add a piece of rubber hose over the iron pipe to tighten it up inside the tent pole). The 33 foot mast is fastened to the tent pole with duct tape, and with the van wheel sitting on the "foot", the whole vertical antenna was very stable. The 9:1 unun ended up being about 2 feet off the ground. Since I couldn't have counterpoise wires because of the people walking around, I used my booster cables to fasten the ground lug to the body of the van.</div>
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This antenna worked better than I expected, with strong signals being heard through the day on 15, 17, 20, 30 and 40m. Although we only worked a few stations, we did have a good time at the Beeton Fair, and I had a chance to try out my 31 foot endfed configuration. I also have a 52 foot wire that can be used when tall trees are available as the support; this longer wire also works on 80m.</div>
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Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-47890477819091679522016-09-02T19:04:00.001-04:002016-09-02T19:09:25.260-04:00Last night the WAX Group had real raspberry pie to go with their Raspberry Pi.<br />
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It was finger licking good. The freshly baked raspberry pie from Barrie Hill Farms was supplied by John VE3FDZ.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl9-uX5EJXQytMih5SGd8JyIaZn0Ys8X2u-f_4xz1JH1RiWygCXQr-QvQ26IGXew36-OuiMeWSxDHRHJNaTxg0OJRcWaxJie0ZatoL1Qtl25mKhu9LmdfsF42cookan-6_31JQ__7ywDc/s1600/raspberry2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl9-uX5EJXQytMih5SGd8JyIaZn0Ys8X2u-f_4xz1JH1RiWygCXQr-QvQ26IGXew36-OuiMeWSxDHRHJNaTxg0OJRcWaxJie0ZatoL1Qtl25mKhu9LmdfsF42cookan-6_31JQ__7ywDc/s320/raspberry2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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As Mike VE3MKX said: "the WAX Group - always going where no radio builders group has gone before..... raspberry pie..... then ice cream!"Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-11125333267868326862016-08-19T13:27:00.000-04:002016-08-19T13:27:59.799-04:00<div style="text-align: center;">
WAX Group members</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3AECCR-PR78ZqLxGT2xeAfoZfnS-fvc9fQ50-RpejenOgAvBP2FA3J9_qL_QmnNgEkivJuBcCrs7LAxMq68gCB378FcRwqR1m4ruU_mP9rXZwzl6UE78JXO8oqiR9r-JaQwPPMUCjyRM/s1600/WAX+Group+members.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3AECCR-PR78ZqLxGT2xeAfoZfnS-fvc9fQ50-RpejenOgAvBP2FA3J9_qL_QmnNgEkivJuBcCrs7LAxMq68gCB378FcRwqR1m4ruU_mP9rXZwzl6UE78JXO8oqiR9r-JaQwPPMUCjyRM/s400/WAX+Group+members.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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We had a good turn-out of members last night (18 August). Clockwise starting from the left-front:</div>
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Tom VE3THR, Eric VA3EEB, Greg VE3YGG, Ian VA3QT, Ryan VA3RRE, Andy VA3TNE, Mike VE3MKX, John VE3FDZ (in blue T-shirt), Al VE3RRD, Jack VE3RDQ, James N6NRD, and Bill VA3OL (in the red shirt). Taking the picture is Ken VE3KDG. James N6NRD still has to write the exam to obtain a Canadian call.</div>
Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-49237683186111484252016-08-03T10:48:00.000-04:002016-08-03T10:48:35.589-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1FbgiRJsCFOFt_HaDSlbPs3yo0q-1ISl9qJEF7kO5QdCdaPdxH-yET-vpmKQIgPj2ZKMNALH4d6TPup4VdUKzKnj92mOYOiLGxIj_Knh8p2x4EsKu_Hj46X2tn_D6VQRV0quXNYBo2MQ/s1600/norcalQRP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="51" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1FbgiRJsCFOFt_HaDSlbPs3yo0q-1ISl9qJEF7kO5QdCdaPdxH-yET-vpmKQIgPj2ZKMNALH4d6TPup4VdUKzKnj92mOYOiLGxIj_Knh8p2x4EsKu_Hj46X2tn_D6VQRV0quXNYBo2MQ/s320/norcalQRP2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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NorCalQRP lives again! A number of years ago, this group sold several kits and published a newsletter called "QRPp". The original website is still found at <a href="http://www.norcalqrp.org/">http://www.norcalqrp.org/</a> and you can download the groups old "QRPp" newsletters from <a href="http://www.ncqrpp.org/">http://www.ncqrpp.org/</a> . As you can see, this interesting newsletter existed from 1993 until it ceased publication in 2003.<br />
Recently, the NorCal club has begun holding monthly meetings again (in San Jose, California), and Doug Hendricks KI6DS has taken on publishing "QRPp, Journal of the NorCal QRP Club". The latest issue for August 2016 (Volume 12 Issue 1), and future issues can be downloaded from the "FILES" section of the NorCalQRP Yahoo Group found at <a href="https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/norcalqrp/info">https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/norcalqrp/info</a> . Just join the group to have access to upcoming issues of this great newsletter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7gctnsnqnSCgouRz8Lf-c6N7qIC7-9rosQ7O20cGHHHRlVrFTtK23-Vcv8BrKzf0ExTERdXgCEfgEOFf49x9uxT7NZe_IBsFp_6bw8cdOHHqr3XBjmu0EgB0mEioz9Pycx-fdLNBTB4/s1600/norcalQRP1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7gctnsnqnSCgouRz8Lf-c6N7qIC7-9rosQ7O20cGHHHRlVrFTtK23-Vcv8BrKzf0ExTERdXgCEfgEOFf49x9uxT7NZe_IBsFp_6bw8cdOHHqr3XBjmu0EgB0mEioz9Pycx-fdLNBTB4/s320/norcalQRP1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-88106378843684913462016-07-17T11:34:00.001-04:002016-07-17T11:38:59.860-04:00I just used Ed K3HTK's auto fldigi install script to install fldigi on my Raspberry Pi 3. The script works very well, I have my Pi connected to my KX3 - you can find the script at: <a href="http://indyham.com/news/fldigi-install-script-for-raspberry-pi-latest-version-3-23-12/">http://indyham.com/news/fldigi-install-script-for-raspberry-pi-latest-version-3-23-12/</a> . FLDIGI is a free program that offers many digital modes including PSK31, RTTY, Hell, MT63, Olivia and even CW. Versions are available for Windows, Apple OS X and Linux. You can download fldigi from : <a href="https://sourceforge.net/projects/fldigi/files/fldigi/">https://sourceforge.net/projects/fldigi/files/fldigi/</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30aPmbXKdDR6wGL3PDzOd4GuJOO3zsFLZJRwW4Irjpcij5PpgvvU3c2gvPe9KVeKF_ERdUuNFkFGk7GG_8-ez7rWr-xSx55aE2fiJVC9shY_WKM07sSh0GfU4fgMYnG5rl9xl3RhsfBU/s1600/fldigi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30aPmbXKdDR6wGL3PDzOd4GuJOO3zsFLZJRwW4Irjpcij5PpgvvU3c2gvPe9KVeKF_ERdUuNFkFGk7GG_8-ez7rWr-xSx55aE2fiJVC9shY_WKM07sSh0GfU4fgMYnG5rl9xl3RhsfBU/s400/fldigi.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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73, AL - VE3RRDWireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-80038655382769772832016-07-14T11:48:00.000-04:002016-07-14T11:48:35.183-04:00QRP is most effective when using a "narrow-band" mode such as CW. Assuming the person receiving you has good CW filtering, 5W of CW has the same copy-ability at the receiving end as 100W or more of SSB voice. In most cases you will see a two S-unit (12 dB) or more improvement with CW as compared to SSB voice. See <a href="http://barrie-wax-group.dyndns.org/images/CWvsSSB.jpg">http://barrie-wax-group.dyndns.org/images/CWvsSSB.jpg</a> and <a href="http://wb9dlc.com/QRP_Works.htm"> http://wb9dlc.com/QRP_Works.htm</a> for an explanation of the power density differences between CW and SSB.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6w9bK9nL9p4eYQNKZplSkApxjxTwZz9Uj8I-29sWpysVhMUJCAgqkzPkbgvqEo3g_T4R9v7JkEqsMNhVsrFFiS9CJ3PKqj04XrZ76uJx6WD71nJ53FU9SUvmlQc8Lc2OOJjIaatMpgaY/s1600/CW+-+best+new+language.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6w9bK9nL9p4eYQNKZplSkApxjxTwZz9Uj8I-29sWpysVhMUJCAgqkzPkbgvqEo3g_T4R9v7JkEqsMNhVsrFFiS9CJ3PKqj04XrZ76uJx6WD71nJ53FU9SUvmlQc8Lc2OOJjIaatMpgaY/s320/CW+-+best+new+language.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijR-j55bPog31ZWJeO5V1GwQXHiDot22wk84hTPi0lvnGU8srFGIqXKZxtKoZPYoGo9FwnBAw7C_DmlCJRZ9QiB-s2XIoccExd-ngr9jRhYjeqCYs6vTrHIKNDRlVWrASNuaZCgRho7ik/s1600/Dont+YELL+-+QRP.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijR-j55bPog31ZWJeO5V1GwQXHiDot22wk84hTPi0lvnGU8srFGIqXKZxtKoZPYoGo9FwnBAw7C_DmlCJRZ9QiB-s2XIoccExd-ngr9jRhYjeqCYs6vTrHIKNDRlVWrASNuaZCgRho7ik/s320/Dont+YELL+-+QRP.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The important skills the QRPer must develop aren't just communication/operating skills, but include a better understanding of the many aspects propagation (day, night, summer, winter, sunspots, solar flares, geomagnetic storms), as well as antenna concepts such as take-off angle, vertical vs. horizontal, antenna radiation efficiency, height above ground, dipoles, end-feds, verticals etc. etc. When you are operating QRP portable then you must choose between weight and size verses efficiency for the radio, the battery, the feedline, the antenna and the antenna configuration you plan to use. </div>
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A high-power (QRO) operator just turns up the power and uses a giant yagi on top of his 100 foot tower to blast through, a QRP operator in the field fights for every fraction of an S-unit improvement he can get. It is definitely "skill instead of power".</div>
Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-87494258898320482392016-07-06T22:52:00.001-04:002016-07-06T23:02:17.105-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3oza2wlav1fK3daxlRWspCqgP_ER6klSnYfYWRbfAO_qx7aWu2ZZ_xM9IoqrGhkJCsFWFpuhzs9box27QZncpFlvGtFV9VoGAgaM0Es48DbaKOe_IAIF1KT0ApDS_vlk99rMkED1dgQ/s1600/AQR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3oza2wlav1fK3daxlRWspCqgP_ER6klSnYfYWRbfAO_qx7aWu2ZZ_xM9IoqrGhkJCsFWFpuhzs9box27QZncpFlvGtFV9VoGAgaM0Es48DbaKOe_IAIF1KT0ApDS_vlk99rMkED1dgQ/s320/AQR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Amateur QRP Radio group, see their Facebook page at<a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/qrpradio/"> https://www.facebook.com/groups/qrpradio/</a> is having their 1st International Amateur QRP Radio Field Weekend starting at 18:00 UTC on Friday 8 July until 18:00 UTC on Sunday 10 July.<br />
Maximum power is 5W.<br />
Goal: Work as many Amateur QRP Radio members as you can, from your shack or operating portable. Keep track of how many Amateur QRP Radio members you contact and tell everyone else about our Amateur QRP Radio Facebook group!<br />
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GROUP CALLING FREQUENCIES*<br />
SSB (Single Sideband)<br />
40 metres – 7.185 MHz<br />
20 metres – 14.285 MHz<br />
17 metres – 18.145 MHz<br />
15 metres – 21.285 MHz<br />
10 metres – 28.365 MHz<br />
2 metres – 144.775 MHz<br />
CW (Morse Code)<br />
40 metres – 7.035 MHz<br />
30 metres – 10.115 MHz<br />
20 metres – 14.035 MHz<br />
17 metres – 18.075 MHz<br />
15 metres – 21.035 MHz<br />
10 metres – 28.035 MHz<br />
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Amateur QRP Radio is an international group of amateur radio licensees who practice and enjoy QRP low power operations. More information may be found on the Amateur QRP Radio Facebook group. You can apply for an "AQRxxx" number which you can exchange with other group members when you contact them.Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-8297559069164383062016-06-04T13:04:00.000-04:002016-06-04T13:25:37.831-04:00You're kidding!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi38gu2aFBX_lmwbBTRUX-SzZ28KDlYn993LGJTzU7XXB0SoNheVDHvLJSrf0aobVgUvFMHBo3gSUfP8ceCXJDwQd5rHkKy1FuXZA05HpsWc2biPGXW4CHykMCgog_AHwZlEhyrCcEM4-w/s1600/oops-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi38gu2aFBX_lmwbBTRUX-SzZ28KDlYn993LGJTzU7XXB0SoNheVDHvLJSrf0aobVgUvFMHBo3gSUfP8ceCXJDwQd5rHkKy1FuXZA05HpsWc2biPGXW4CHykMCgog_AHwZlEhyrCcEM4-w/s320/oops-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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But I selected the 10A range and it's still not getting hot.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaZ49tNBEfvUMknkfcqkDQ3BsLwrna8WH3vxqIfZ8cuGFYvFBKND11UmbMKW8UWu1Q7Nc-cRuDCH2SiXULy-vdADIqDocTv0pEW4eOZFMQaq5eNwb3DlO5yi00ROkRUAiRx10hyphenhyphenS4w5g/s1600/oops-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaZ49tNBEfvUMknkfcqkDQ3BsLwrna8WH3vxqIfZ8cuGFYvFBKND11UmbMKW8UWu1Q7Nc-cRuDCH2SiXULy-vdADIqDocTv0pEW4eOZFMQaq5eNwb3DlO5yi00ROkRUAiRx10hyphenhyphenS4w5g/s320/oops-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I smell something burning!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMwk_Nvrl8m0r_mVWFOO0560owzela65ji7ZQ6hk6lRUn95a8HDGQeZceBMV89KeumOLOYH_MG4RCp1seM_NKC4hvAvZZfg30lLLDiQdV-FxKseImK9Rh60rKk8-gFUuV7KkqbVDyt_rw/s1600/oops-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMwk_Nvrl8m0r_mVWFOO0560owzela65ji7ZQ6hk6lRUn95a8HDGQeZceBMV89KeumOLOYH_MG4RCp1seM_NKC4hvAvZZfg30lLLDiQdV-FxKseImK9Rh60rKk8-gFUuV7KkqbVDyt_rw/s320/oops-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-43610124703595960412016-06-02T11:48:00.002-04:002016-06-02T12:09:08.680-04:00"Headless" Raspberry Pi<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IhsgJrnxirSsE3lNrj2hGb2smM_KxuLqbfE6pkJmpN3oMcXSOqXx8i9yG-ti5clSPfwR98RYLYRzEXs7qa9Qn17ODYiTl_ds_mBj5ZOb1NBZPyvLqH5xEWmMtVzD7uskvjrvv9Mh2Ig/s1600/VNC+access+of+RPi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IhsgJrnxirSsE3lNrj2hGb2smM_KxuLqbfE6pkJmpN3oMcXSOqXx8i9yG-ti5clSPfwR98RYLYRzEXs7qa9Qn17ODYiTl_ds_mBj5ZOb1NBZPyvLqH5xEWmMtVzD7uskvjrvv9Mh2Ig/s320/VNC+access+of+RPi.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is a snapshot of using VNC Viewer on my iPad Mini to remotely access the Raspberry Pi 3 located at my home. The RPi3 has on-board WiFi and Bluetooth. A VNC server can be configured to run on bootup of the Pi to allow remote access from anywhere. You can instead use Remote Desktop if you wish by installing XRDP remote desktop server on the Pi. Using one of these methods means that you don't really need a monitor, keyboard or mouse plugged into the Raspberry Pi, instead use a Windows laptop, iPad, Android tablet etc. That unused Windows machine can become a "dumb terminal" for accessing the RPi.</div>
<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-44641215859038981652016-06-02T11:11:00.003-04:002016-06-02T11:21:36.013-04:00The Arduino Uno clone "the Shrimp" with LCD display.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneLAkeySPLxwGELvSWCLQdfHdB2IDxOmBckiUdBuG3l3ti_RXEbis64AitkSkPd3EyxUR9dSzf-qeN3H5tdzWdrJRfnulIqHHsuBtn5XEO2OsmdZAsxu0fgrlQZFKfG1symInzVGFRPc/s1600/the+Shrimp.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneLAkeySPLxwGELvSWCLQdfHdB2IDxOmBckiUdBuG3l3ti_RXEbis64AitkSkPd3EyxUR9dSzf-qeN3H5tdzWdrJRfnulIqHHsuBtn5XEO2OsmdZAsxu0fgrlQZFKfG1symInzVGFRPc/s320/the+Shrimp.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Some of the WAX Group members building their own Shrimp.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDubrQON9wVLyoW6_rrLyQvpT40lYcIZmOd6MUHX5M0LcKygw-RClHCctZntWZjhXPttNbmT-1jem4sKoIPUSSwFwxyKEENzaNAK7JH25sWw1cS6tj2f8UGiperaQWrP-bxQwYAu57ao/s1600/building+the+Shrimp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDubrQON9wVLyoW6_rrLyQvpT40lYcIZmOd6MUHX5M0LcKygw-RClHCctZntWZjhXPttNbmT-1jem4sKoIPUSSwFwxyKEENzaNAK7JH25sWw1cS6tj2f8UGiperaQWrP-bxQwYAu57ao/s320/building+the+Shrimp.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Shrimp uses the same CPU (and programming software) as the Arduino Uno (ATMEGA328P) but costs much less. See <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/">https://www.arduino.cc/</a> for more info about the Arduino and download the latest version of the Arduino IDE for programming at <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software">https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software</a> . Adafruit is another good source for information about the Arduino and what you can do with it: <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/category/learn-arduino">https://learn.adafruit.com/category/learn-arduino</a> .</div>
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<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-72072975804669175782016-05-29T14:00:00.000-04:002016-05-29T14:40:30.601-04:00The "Fun at the park" event went well, the weather was fine (it wasn't too hot under the trees with a slight breeze). We started out with breakfast at Debbs Place restaurant at 8am and then headed out to Sunnidale Park. Lots of tall trees for antenna supports here.<br />
Conditions weren't the best but we were hearing a number of SSB stations (lots of contest CW) on 40m, 20m and even 17m. Didn't hear anyone in the "1st International Field Radio Event".<br />
All in all, everyone had a good time.<br />
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List of those taking part:<br />
Al VE3RRD (in photo Fun in the park1) operating the club TS-480SAT powered from battery and using both a half-size G5RV (10m-40m) and an end fed (10m-80m).<br />
Jack VE3RDQ (also in photo 1) hiding behind Al<br />
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Andy VA3TNE (in photo 2) with his KX3 and comfortable operating chair (using an end-fed antenna)<br />
Ken VE3KDG (also in photo 2) oops! where did Ken's head go?<br />
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Ian VA3QT (his equipment is in photo 3 and 4) Photo 3 shows Ian's Buddipole on the tripod. Photo 4 shows his "portable" HF data station.<br />
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Also there but no picture was William VE3HME who operated HF mobile from his vehicle with a wire antenna up the nearest tree.<br />
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John VE3FDZ who was taking the pictures.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElW72PyjJ-CPCsT1drhwmuWk2wnTMxsGnKkUk4FNXHPaN7qoy8M3Yo-AmKZ9LWDN_iB35zlkMQu7_sZjWHSWZmHp6fCahyphenhyphencz23kFcDhZoUV1TeGwN_7X_kRiW8qBfIEb_TkjnuNu76nc/s1600/Fun+at+the+park1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElW72PyjJ-CPCsT1drhwmuWk2wnTMxsGnKkUk4FNXHPaN7qoy8M3Yo-AmKZ9LWDN_iB35zlkMQu7_sZjWHSWZmHp6fCahyphenhyphencz23kFcDhZoUV1TeGwN_7X_kRiW8qBfIEb_TkjnuNu76nc/s320/Fun+at+the+park1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1034353615164024821.post-20525420046159385422016-05-26T20:10:00.000-04:002016-05-26T20:31:02.657-04:00As I write this, members of the WAX Group are at our weekly get-together in Ken VE3KDG's workshop. We meet each Thursday evening around 7pm to work on projects or just talk. Now we are playing with a number of Raspberry Pi 3 computers (in total we bought 12) that were just purchased from<a href="https://www.buyapi.ca/"> https://www.buyapi.ca/</a> , a mail order store located in Ottawa.<br />
<img src="https://www.buyapi.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/logo21.png" /> <a href="https://www.buyapi.ca/">https://www.buyapi.ca/</a><br />
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We are also experimenting with some Arduino Uno clones called the Arduino Shrimp ( <a href="http://start.shrimping.it/">http://start.shrimping.it/</a> ), plus some Arduino Nano clones that we purchased from Amazon.ca<br />
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<img src="http://www.pyroelectro.com/img/shriuodbrjoeslkjdbdrke.jpg" /> <img alt="Product Details" src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/510p1+fopwL._AC_US160_.jpg" />Wireless Amateur Experimenter Grouphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17020377073139926823noreply@blogger.com0